A Ride of Passage: The Red Lodge Experience

July 2020 | photos and article by holly netz

The weather is a balmy 78 degrees, with the sunroof open and my bare feet on the dashboard, my husband and I crank some classic ‘90s country music and speed up the two-lane highway to the town of Red Lodge -- and the base of the Beartooth Mountains. Although “speed” might be overstating things as little communities dot the highway along the way, dictating sporadic drops in the speed limit to 25 or 35. With such beauty surrounding us, I find it hard to keep track when those drops happen, as the stunning views command my attention. I've always called this the "shimmer season." Everything has burst into a lush green, and the wide-open spaces allow the sun to bring an almost golden shimmer to everything surrounding us.  

The "Red Lodge Summer Trip" is a rite (or ride, rather) of passage for residents of Billings and the surrounding areas. Though tourists flock to the small community by the thousands, the town seems to absorb them quietly, retaining its quaintness and authenticity. Red Lodge marks the starting point for a beautiful trip across the Beartooth Range via hairpin turns, and gorgeous drop-offs. The highest point of the drive reaches a breathtaking 10,900 ft. As you ascend the mountain and cross to the Wyoming side, you spot the must-see Beartooth Pass Lookout Point and the "Top of the World Store." No, they do not have wi-fi (do NOT ask!), and the restrooms are campground-style, but if you don't stop, you are missing out. The end of the pass delivers you to the entrance of Yellowstone National Park and Cooke City. It's hard to believe as you enter the park that you will see more beautiful landscapes than you passed arriving there. 

Red Lodge is a town that, years ago, was known for having a saloon on every corner. While there remains no shortage of authentic saloons, many art galleries, gift shops with works by local artisans, and amazing restaurants have popped up and make for a wonderful afternoon of strolling the small-town sidewalks. The candy store, Montana Candy Emporium, is a well-known must-stop, and the whole town seems to envelop you with friendliness and a Montana spirit.  

Beyond being a tourist town, Red Lodge is the source of endless summertime outdoor adventures. Some of the most beautiful camping spots in the state lie at the base of the Beartooths. Hiking trails are copious, and even with so many people in the area, you can still feel alone and one with nature. Families drive up for the day just to fish or picnic. Overnight backpacking opportunities are unmatched, and many families rent cabins for weekends or an entire week as a getaway. 

Rodeo has a strong legacy in the town as well. Even if you aren't a "rodeo person," you'll want to go to at least one in your life, and the "Home of Champions" rodeo is the one to experience. First started in 1929 by a group of local riders, the area is home to generations of famed riders. The old wooden grandstands were erected soon after the onset, and remain intact, giving the grounds a real sense of authenticity. Traditionally held over July 2-4, the 91st Home of the Champions Rodeo has been rescheduled to 2021 due to the COVID-19 pandemic.  

So after a long summer day, we find ourselves satiated with great food, genuine conversation with locals, candy, small treasures found in the shops, oh— and gorgeous scenery—we sadly decide it’s time to call it a day. We head back to Billings as the sun begins its journey towards the horizon. Thanks Red Lodge...until we meet again! 

Originally printed in the July 2020 issue of Simply Local Magazine

Never miss an issue, check out SLM's digital editions here!  

related articles: