"Inverted Portal" artwork by Ensamble Studio

Article and photos by Renata Haidle

In Montana, solitude is easy to find. It spills across the plains, climbs on top of the mountains, and runs through the long expanses of the bluest sky. Many of us here have a mental map of remote places where we go to escape, find refuge, and recharge. I have my own, strewn around the state, “from the mountains to the prairies”, like the song says. Less common, however, is a place where you can indulge your love for nature and music, poetry, and art. If you're looking for that, Tippet Rise is where you want to be.

"Daydreams" artwork by Patrick Dougherty

The brainchild of artists and benefactors Peter and Cathy Halstead, Tippet Rise Art Center is a place for introspection and inspiration. A working sheep and cattle ranch spread on thousands of acres of unspoiled Montana land, it is also one of the largest open-air art installations in the world, and home to classical music concerts and recitals.

On over 12,000 acres of rugged ranchland, monumental sculptures by artists such as Alexander Calder, Mark di Suvero, Ai Weiwei, and Patrick Dougherty rise from the landscape like modern relics. The land is the frame, the stage, the quiet background of the masterpiece.

My nature-loving friend Lindsay summoned me one moody summer day to accompany her on a road trip to the ranch to become acquainted with the artworks. She knows my affection for places less than ordinary. From Columbus to Absarokee, Highway 78 takes us on a scenic drive that rolls past aspen groves, open meadows, and the Stillwater River, its course tracing silver lines through the valley. The late spring rains have greened the hills, and the air is sharp with sage.

At the ranch entrance, we meet our guide, Tim. His voice is deep, his face rugged, his hair and mustache whitened by the passing of time. There are eight of us on the tour, and we board the van in silence, the kind that settles in just before something remarkable is about to begin.

The sculptures are scattered across the land. Some are nestled into valleys, others stand exposed on ridgelines. They don’t announce themselves. They wait to be found. Stephen Talasnik’s “Beethoven’s Quartet” rises like the skeleton of a long-lost structure. Nearby, “Domo” by Ensamble Studio, a concrete pavilion shaped by the contours of the land, seems as if it erupted from the earth itself. Each piece has been placed with intention, considering not just views and access, but the way the light moves and the wind carries sound.

Tim shares the story of how Tippet Rise came to be. Peter is an accomplished pianist, writer, and photographer. Cathy is an abstract painter who has exhibited around the world.

"Satellite 5: Pioneer"  artwork by Stephen Talasnik

They both come from families who have supported arts and culture for generations, in the United States and abroad. They combined their passions to create something permanent in a place defined by impermanence. They have designed every detail with care, from the acoustics of the Olivier Music Barn (an intimate concert space modeled after the Esterhazy Music Room in Eisenstadt, Austria) to the unpaved roads that encourage you to slow down and appreciate your surroundings.

Throughout the tour, we step out often to explore. I walk slowly, not just to absorb the art, but to pay attention to the place itself: the way the grasses bend in the wind, the call of a meadowlark, the moving clouds. In some areas, you can see for miles. In others, the land folds in on itself, quiet and self-contained. I marvel at the sheer genius of the artists, at the gigantic scale of their works. The sculptures have poetic names: Azimuth, Proverb, Whale’s Cry.

By mid-afternoon, clouds gather and the sky turns a familiar shade of stormy blue. Light fractures across the land, and for a brief moment, a sculpture casts a shadow that seems impossibly long. Somewhere in the distance, thunder echoes off the hills.

It is an enchanting time. As an introvert, I'm not overly fond of organized tours, I'll admit. Yet somehow, I managed to find the physical and mental space to detach myself from the group and absorb each scene, while clicking the shutter on my camera. One photo after another, I record snippets of this place on a tiny digital card and in my mind's secret stash of perfect moments. I'm overwhelmed with gratitude. Toward Cathy and Peter, for allowing us into their world. Towards Lindsay, for asking me to come along. And ultimately, towards the Creator, for everything.

If you go:

• Tippet Rise Art Center is located near Fishtail, Montana, approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes from Billings.
• The center is open to the public from mid-June through mid- September, Fridays through Sundays only.
• Visitors can explore via hiking and biking trails or take guided van tours. Private vehicles and pets are not allowed on the ranch. Reservations are required and can be made through the website.
• The summer music season features classical performances in indoor and outdoor venues. In April, tickets are distributed through an online lottery.
• Plan ahead: space is limited, and demand is high. Check tippetrise.org for tour availability, artist information, and up- to-date visitor policies.

Originally printed in the June 2025 issue of Simply Local Magazine

Check this article out in the digital issue of Simply Local here!

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